The GoodWeave System

Child labor often goes undetected, hidden in unregistered production sites where company oversight programs do not reach. Clear and rigorous standards verified through in-depth mapping and inspection of all tiers of the supply chain are central to creating child-labor-free production. Deep supply chain mapping is the process of revealing and documenting all work sites, including previously undisclosed locations, and is an integral part of the inspection process. As production premises are inspected and verified, new sites are usually disclosed, creating a map that leads inspectors deeper into a supply chain where child laborers, sometimes purposefully concealed, can be identified and rescued. This brief shares the methodologies and interventions used by GoodWeave to fully map supply chains to disclose child labor. BEST PRACTICE IN DEEP SUPPLY CHAIN MAPPINNG • Integrate supply chain mapping into the inspection processes • Maintain a local presence • Build trust at all levels • Verify supply chains using multiple methods INTEGRATE SUPPLY CHAIN MAPPING INTO THE INSPECTION PROCESSESS It can be a challenge to document every single supplier or subcontractor involved in the production of goods within a supply chain. Generally, business is conducted at the primary export factory tier, where relationships exist between suppliers and buyers. Inspections for most social compliance programs typically take place at this level. For organizations who are serious about tackling child labor, systems must be developed to gain visibility into outsourced production and uncover potential abuses. GoodWeave uses the following strategies to document and map the supply chain during the inspection process: • Require supplier lists • Update supplier lists regularly • Engage the buyer Best Practice Applied The GoodWeave Standard requires suppliers to be transparent in their business practices and disclose all known subcontractors in their supply chain. The mapping process begins when an exporter becomes a GoodWeave licensee and commits to sharing a list of all their suppliers. During the initial onboarding of an exporter, GoodWeave verifies all suppliers on the list within the first three months. These lists are rarely complete and GoodWeave inspectors often identify additional suppliers contracted by the exporter. Exporters may know the subcontractors their suppliers work with directly, but are often unaware of further subcontracting to other units, including home-based units. In some cases, subcontracting is intentionally obscured, which is not allowed in GoodWeave’s system. Inspectors from GoodWeave visit all subcontracted suppliers shared by the licensee to develop a com- prehensive supply chain map. During inspection visits, GoodWeave asks questions and gathers information about additional production units associated with the supply chain. New locations revealed during the process add detail to the map. One exporter may disclose two to three subcontracted suppliers who in turn outsource work to dozens or hundreds of subcontracted pro- ducers, including home-based units, all unknown to the licensee. Supply chains are constantly changing due to buyers’ demands, the ebb and flow of purchase orders, and the capacity of production units. For this reason, GoodWeave requires that supplier lists are updated regularly by the licensee, and each time there is a change in suppliers. This means that the supplier map is ever changing and must be verified. There are times when a licensed exporter fails to reveal their complete supplier list. In this case, they may need to be motivated by their buyer to cooperate. This is where GoodWeave’s partnership with the purchasing company is critical to the work. MAINTAIN A LOCAL PRESENCE A local presence within worker communities allows for insights into outsourcing and provides workers with a venue to voice concerns. When auditors and/or certification bodies are based in the community where they operate, they can establish positive relationships with suppliers and regularly conduct announced and unannounced visits to production sites. When building a local presence: • Establish a local inspection team • Visit frequently • Deliver benefits to communities Best Practice Applied GoodWeave inspectors are embedded in the com- munities where they work. They have a strong knowledge of the people, culture, and local practices. They have an in-depth understanding of the work processes that are carried out in production units. They regularly meet with suppliers, workers and labor brokers in and around the supply chains. This presence allows Good- Weave to see deeply into otherwise hidden supply chains, map and document them, and address labor violations. GoodWeave also establishes a presence in the communities where supply chains are located through child labor prevention activities (See the Best Practice Prevention Brief), including day cares, education centers, and healthcare and other pro-grams for adult workers. These programs provide another source of access to factories and home-based production units, and builds goodwill with all supply chain actors. BUILD TRUST AT ALL LEVELS Building trust with producers at all levels – from the factory to home-based units – is critical to shedding light on hidden production. Misunderstandings can be averted through clear and transparent expectations established at the beginning of a relationship. By building trust, GoodWeave works together with producers and the communities to minimize the risk of child labor. To build trust: • Engage management and workers • Highlight business benefits of a child-labor free supply chain Every engagement with a licensee or sub- contractor is an opportunity to nurture a joint commitment to minimizing the risk of child labor. Best Practice Applied Every engagement with a licensee or subcontractor is an opportunity to nurture a joint commitment to minimizing the risk of child labor. When GoodWeave invests time in building trust in a community, undis- closed suppliers are often revealed. The result is a comprehensive supply map that covers all production units, from large factories to home-based units. GoodWeave works closely with suppliers. When engaging a new company or supplier, all expectations and the reasons behind them are clearly explained. Trust is the result of mutual openness, and the expec- tation and understanding the company will comply with the GoodWeave Standard requirements. In the process of building relationships with suppliers, Good- Weave conveys the full intention to help and support. This includes budgeting time for proper introductions with new points of contact or a new supply chain actor. Full transparency is not always comfortable to suppliers, but over time as they make improvements, they begin to see the value of deep supply chain mapping. GoodWeave’s in-depth inspection system can help suppliers understand the breadth and depth of subcontracted work, and gives them assurance that all production units are verified as child-labor free. This gives them access to a broader pool of subcontractors, and can even provide cross-functional benefits, such as improved quality control. Worker retention and productivity increase as job security improves. And children and families experience better outcomes.Establishing trust with suppliers and workers from the very beginning, and enlisting their help in rooting out child labor, results in a more effective inspection process. VERIFY SUPPLY CHAINS USING MULTIPLE METHODS Even with a solid foundation of trust, various methods are necessarily employed to confirm a supply chain mapping process. • Understand the production processes • Be aware of each and every production unit in the supply chain • Triangulate information and ask strategic questions Best Practice Applied GoodWeave’s experience shows that, in addition to establishing trust, it is important to employ creative methods to verify that all production units are dis- closed. Close proximity to production units affords GoodWeave an in-depth understanding of the process and the skills required along the supply chain and can help inspectors locate areas that may have been over- looked or obscured. For example, if the end product is an intricate blouse, GoodWeave inspectors work through a number of questions, such as: • Who is the work contracted to? • How many pieces are ordered? • Where will the shirts be sewn? • Who handles the embroidery or other specialty embellishment? • Are the tags stitched on by a separate production unit? Once production processes are clear, the steps can be tracked and verified down to a home-based unit. GoodWeave inspectors may carry a photo of the final product or pattern design books so they know exactly what they are looking for. It is not uncommon that a supplier will subcontract part of a work order out to multiple producers if they do not have the capacity to complete an order. Tracing purchase orders and other documents from the exporter through their supply chain can help reveal undisclosed suppliers. This information, when triangulated through interviews with workers and even community members, can provide important insights to ensure a 360-degree view of the supply chain. GoodWeave’s comprehensive mix of verification methods – ongoing assessments, unannounced visits, interviews, triangulation of orders and community programming – helps suppliers understand that they are part of a system and encourages transparency.

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An effective supply chain monitoring strategy is critical to mitigating and remediating child labor. A mix of audits and inspection visits to production units can provide visibility deep into the supply chain, helping companies and brands locate areas with the greatest risk for child labor. GoodWeave defines audits as announced on-site assessments of a producer that evaluate compliance with the entire GoodWeave Standard. Inspections, on the other hand, are frequent, unannounced assessments that verify compliance with the GoodWeave certification principles – no child labor, no forced and bonded labor, and documented and verifiable conditions of work. This brief provides successful strategies for monitoring supply chains that GoodWeave has implemented as part of its certification system. BEST PRACTICE IN INSPECTION AND MONITORING • Conduct regular and unannounced supply chain inspections at all levels • Identify the greatest risk areas for child labor, and plan processes accordingly • Understand nuances throughout the supply chain and employ appropriate methodsCONDUCT RUGULAR AND UNANNOUNCED INSPECTIONS AT ALL LEVELS Many companies have a supply chain oversight program to ensure good working conditions and product quality. These programs typically provide an opportunity to verify conditions and treatment of workers, clarify quality expectations and build trust. GoodWeave recommends adding rigor to these oversight processes to ensure no child labor is used. • Regularly inspect all production units, including subcontracted and home-based units • Include unannounced inspections Best Practice Applied Two factors distinguish GoodWeave’s approach to supply chain monitoring. First, they comprise all production units, including home-based units, even if only a small portion of the unit is dedicated to producing a certified product. This is important because often the largest segment of a company’s production may be manufactured beyond the primary factory location. This hidden and informal part of the supply chain is usually where the most egregious labor rights violations occur. Secondly, inspections are unannounced. Surprise inspections increase capacity to identify child laborers, as well as result in prevention in the form of deterrence, due to the potential business consequences of using child labor. As hidden production units are revealed, they are added to a supplier map and improve supply chain oversight. Frequent unannounced inspections allow GoodWeave inspectors to truly verify child labor practices are not occurring in a supply chain. When a company relies on scheduled audits for due diligence, it is easy for employers to hide unwanted practices. During initial audits, suppliers should be made aware that unannounced inspections are part of the due diligence process. The frequency of inspections depends on the level of risk for child labor. High-risk areas should be visited monthly if possible, sometimes more frequently if evidence of child labor is found. Other production units with a good record can be visited less frequently. IDENFITY THE GREATEST RISK AREAS FOR CHILD LABOR, AND PLAN PROCESSES ACCORDINGLY When creating a monitoring strategy, it is best to prioritize the areas where there is greatest risk. Each sector has different risks at different points of the supply chain. • Consider how child labor may be concealed • Plan processes and procedures for inspections to mitigate risks Best Practice Applied When developing the processes and procedures for inspections, it is best to determine the conditions most conducive to the risk occurring. Questions such as: Are there physical locations where it might be easier to hide children? Are there certain days or times when children may be found working? Is there a high prevalence of child labor where the production site is located? Inspection processes are then planned accordingly to improve the likelihood of discovering child labor if it is occurring. For example, GoodWeave considers the following: • What times are school in session? No child should be seen in any workplace or working at home during this time. • What is the layout of the workplace, including the home, and are there places where children could be hidden? • How many entrances and exits are there? Can the factory be approached in a way that minimizes the likelihood of children being removed through those exits? By planning ahead, and considering these factors, organizations can increase the efficacy of inspections. UNDERSTAND NUANCES THROUGHOUT THE SUPPLY CHAIN AND EMPLOY APPROPRIATE METHODS Most global supply chains are complex and opaque. There are differences between factories, subcontracted units and home-based unit and how the local laws apply to the different parts of the supply chain. • Adapt approaches and techniques for the various tiers of production • Understand the relevant laws that apply to child labor and light work across production units Best Practice Applied Inspection and monitoring visits look significantly different at various levels of the supply chain. At the factory level, GoodWeave inspectors may engage with hundreds of workers in a more formal setting, while inspections at the home-based work unit level are more intimate. They occur in someone’s home where that worker and their family live, eat and sleep.Planning inspections requires a rigorous understanding of local laws on child labor and light work. Age limits for working and how they are defined vary by country and may differ by production settings. Accordingly, visits are conducted respectfully and professionally in an appropriate manner. Though it may be acceptable to ask questions in a factory using a clipboard, a home setting requires a more conversational, casual approach. Inspectors can still verify the relevant requirements in the GoodWeave Standard, but follow-up questions include how the child’s schooling is going or what kinds of chores do the children do and who in the village works for the same suppliers. This provides additional information or clues that increase the likelihood of uncovering child labor, as well as undisclosed production. In a home-based setting, it is likely to see children engaged in light work, and GoodWeave inspectors have a solid understanding of the difference between that and child labor to determine if it should be reported. For example, a child of a certain age may be permitted by law to help out at a family’s store for a few hours after school, but they cannot work at the family’s store full-time and during school hours. The International Labor Organization (ILO) curates labor laws from around the world. Use this link to search by country and learn more about local regulations and nuances around age, hours of work, and type of work

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Ending child labor requires programs to address the root causes including, lack of access to education, poverty, worker exploitation, as well as social and cultural norms. Preventative strategies can ensure clean supply chains and can have life-long positive impacts for children.Prevention is at the heart of the GoodWeave model, and includes changing practices in companies and communities to ensure schooling for children and improved working conditions for adults. This brief highlights methodologies employed by GoodWeave, beyond supply chain monitoring, to prevent child labor and establish long-term, sustainable solutions to end it. BEST PRACTICE IN CHILD LABOR PREVENTION • Engage stakeholders in worker communities • Offer educational opportunities to children • Improve conditions for adult workers ENGAGE STAKEHOLDERS IN WORKER COMMUNITIES Establishing a presence in worker communities enables meaningful stakeholder engagement to help document the root causes of child labor, such as poverty or lack of education, and can turn prevention programming into a community-wide effort. When engaging stakeholders, such as employers, workers, children, educators and local leaders, GoodWeave aims to: • Understand the reasons why child labor and worker exploitation persists • Collect quantitative and qualitative data to inform program interventions and track progress • Raise awareness in the community about child and workers’ rights • Include all actors in the fight against child labor Best Practice Applied Outside of the factories and production units, there is a wider community that supports human rights and especially the development of children. Eliminating child labor means working within and going beyond the supply chain to address a range of factors that result in child labor. The first step in doing this is to evaluate the circumstances in a given community. Since GoodWeave teams are embedded in the worker communities, data collection is an ongoing process and is part of their daily work. For example, inspectors speak with employers and workers every day, and through formal interviews and informal conversation, document priority needs. At the household level, program team members meet with families and assess information about the status of the family and children in particular. Through formal surveys enrollment, attendance and learning level data is tracked to identify and serve at-risk children; while informal visits to the family identify barriers to school attendance. Community level mapping documents the local people, organizations and infrastructure that can be leveraged to build and implement strong and sustainable programs. GoodWeave stakeholder engagement strategies result in targeted programming that facilitates access to rights for children and workers, as well as meets their basic needs. With everyone involved, trust is created, livelihoods are improved, and the entire supply chain is strengthened by ensuring a ready workforce free from child labor and worker exploitation. OFFER EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES TO CHILDREN School enrollment and high attendance rates are indicators that a producer region is at low risk of child labor, and therefore offering educational opportunities to children helps build child friendly supply chains and communities. Once local stakeholders are consulted and needs assessed, GoodWeave develops educational programs that: • Increase access to education for rescued child laborers and those at-risk of exploitation • Align with existing government or other local schools and services • Engage parents and other stakeholders to ensure the best outcomes for all children Best Practice Applied Based on data collection and needs assessments, GoodWeave establishes a range of educational opportunities for children across worker communities. Assessments help GoodWeave understand the needs of individual children and guide interventions that may include: • Early education and daycare centers, providing parents with an alternative to bringing children to work or leaving older children to care for younger ones. It also puts children on an early track for education. • Non-formal education and bridge schools that provide additional learning support to help children enroll and succeed in local and government schools at an age-appropriate level. • Enrollment in local primary or secondary schools for those on track for an age appropriate learning level. • Center-based rehabilitation programs that provide care, shelter and access to education for children who were rescued from child labor. GoodWeave works closely with stakeholders to provide resources and raise community awareness about the importance of education. Monitoring local school attendance and offering other assistance as needed ensures children, families and schools are progressing.Many schools serving the communities where GoodWeave operates are underfunded, and teachers are underpaid, negatively impacting learning and achievement. GoodWeave addresses these barriers by providing teacher training and educational materials, assisting teachers and schools in creating a more engaging environment that motivates students and improves learning outcomes. Parents are engaged through enrollment drives, household visits for children with irregular attendance, and parent-teacher meetings. Each community faces different challenges, so approaches are tailored to the community and children’s needs. For example, in remote villages, at Nepal, young girls regularly face the prospect of arranged marriage, limiting their education and stifling growth. In-depth engagement with families can help stop child marriage and ensure educational opportunities for children. PROVIDING ACCESSIBLE CHILD CARE When GoodWeave inspectors in urban areas in Kathmandu saw workers bringing their young children to factories, they understood the need for accessible child care. Together with local education partners, GoodWeave established four early childhood education centers in factory cluster areas in Kathmandu. These subsidized education centers provide a safe space where workers’ children can socialize, play, receive hot meals and prepare for primary school, putting them on track for learning and valuing education. Employers cover a portion of the cost, and workers pay a nominal fee to cover lunch, which invests them in the success of the program. Counseling encourages for parents encourages them to engage and support their children’s education. Once one child is enrolled, parents realize the value of early education and enroll their other children. Employers also reap benefits from these centers – workers, especially mothers, can focus on their work without being distracted, and the risks of young children on the factory floor are resolved. After many years, these education centers continue to support early education and regularly enroll new children. In addition to improving working conditions, GoodWeave supports adult workers with a variety of programs to increase wellbeing and earning potential, such as: • Adult literacy classes and vocational training • Health clinics • Training in financial literacy Inspectors are trained to identify unacceptable labor conditions and facilitate remediation. In cases of unsustainable or unsafe work situations, workers may need support in developing new skills so they can find better work. GoodWeave provides this support to workers, as well as information on their rights in the workplace. IMPROVE CONDITIONS FOR ADULT WORKERS A lack of decent work and low wages create barriers to families meeting basic needs, and any approach to ending child labor must ensure workers’ rights and wellbeing. To do this, GoodWeave acts to: • Enforce prohibitions on forced and bonded labor • Ensure payment of wages and benefits for adult workers • Offer vocational training and job placement • Provide information on rights in the workplace Best Practice Applied When parents enjoy decent work, higher wages, and increased security, the risk for child labor is reduced. GoodWeave prohibits forced and bonded labor, provides skills training and job placement and improves working conditions, so that adult workers are ensured rights and are more likely to send their children to school. GoodWeave requires enforceable, written contracts as a core requirement in the GoodWeave Standard. This requirement means that every worker is entitled to an employment agreement that includes a description of the work, working hours, and pay rate, regardless of whether the worker is paid by piece rate, quota, hourly or monthly. GoodWeave assesses piece rate wages and ensures workers understand how their piece rates relate to local minimum wages.

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When child labor is detected in a supply chain, the first step is ensuring the safety of all involved. A remediation policy with accompanying procedures is critical for any company or nongovernmental organization working in a sector at-risk for child labor. Most procedures will involve working with a partner organization and/or the government. GoodWeave’s approach prioritizes the best interest of the child throughout the remediation process. While remediation begins with immediate action to rescue a child, rehabilitation and social reintegration are the processes of providing all necessary care, counseling and assistance aimed at successful mainstreaming a child back into society. This brief shares a framework for ensuring the protection of children in short-, medium- and long-term rehabilitation and social reintegration. BEST PRACTICE FOR REMEDIATION • Use a survivor-centered, rights-based approach • Apply a situational approach for each case • Plan for short-, medium- and long-term care of the child USE A SURVIVOR-CENTERED, RIGHTS-BASED APPROACH Child rights are human rights. The specific rights applicable to children are outlined in international conventions, especially the International Convention on the Rights of the Child, and should be applied in all instances of child labor remediation. A survivor-centered approach is defined by the United Nations as one that seeks to empower the survivor by prioritizing their rights, needs and wishes. To ensure the protection of a child, programs and services should be tailored to uphold these rights. This approach safeguards: • Non-discrimination • Best interest of child • The right to life, survival and development • The right to participate Best Practice Applied When conducting remediation efforts GoodWeave takes a rights-based approach that ensures the best outcomes for the child. Child rights can be categorized to include: non-discrimination; the best interest of the child; the right to life, survival and development; and the right to participate and be listened to, which includes facilitating children’s participation in all matters affecting them. Any child going through the remediation process must be protected and have all rights guaranteed without discrimination based on nationality, race, gender, religion or other protected characteristics. In determining the best interests of the child, GoodWeave explains the remediation options available to the affected child in an age-appropriate manner. A rights- based approach encourages children to express their opinion and gives them agency in decision-making in all matters that affect them. This ensures that the selected option does not put the child in danger of exploitation and brings about a positive change in their life. The child has a right to the resources and skills necessary for their survival and the realization of their fullest potential, including a right to repatriation and reunification with family, and protection throughout the remediation process. Child protection agencies are typically reserved as a last resort, depending on the type of child labor case. This allows for maximum flexibility to determine the best approach for the child depending on the nuance of each case. Additionally, children are entitled to a say in matters affecting their social, economic, religious, cultural and political life. This includes the right to privacy and confidentiality. In practice, this means that a child is asked about his or her preferences when determining the remediation steps, and all matters are kept confidential by adults working with children. APPLY A SITUATIONAL APPROACH FOR EACH CASE Though there are patterns and commonality to many child labor cases, every situation is unique and should be treated as such. Considerations should include: • Local law • Type of child labor • Tailored rehabilitation Best Practice Applied The ultimate goal of remediation is to ensure that a child can be at home with their family and attending school. Helping with family work is acceptable as long as it is not work classified as hazardous or worst forms of child labor as defined by the national law, and does not interfere with school and play. Inspections can reveal unacceptable amounts of work or treatment that violates a child’s rights. Each case of child labor presents a unique situation. Remediation efforts need to consider not only local laws, but also the context — the type of child labor and other circumstances. Most governments have guidelines on if and how child labor cases are reported to the government, and the agencies that need to be involved. For GoodWeave, when a case of child labor is detected the case is designated as one of three categories based on the specific context for the child. The remediation steps are designed accordingly. The three categories include: • Children living with their parents or guardians and doing hazardous or prohibited work as defined by law, or engaged in non-hazardous work and not attending school. • Children living with their parents/guardians and working outside of the home for an employer. • Children living outside of their homes and working for an employer. Former child laborers are provided with home-based, community-based and/or center-based rehabilitation as appropriate to the situation, in line with guidelines provided by GoodWeave and in consultation with the child and his/her family.Any remediation effort should consider a number of key questions. For example, if a child has been trafficked, is it in the best interest of the child to return home? Does the child want to return home? Will they be able to go to school if they do? If the child is found working alongside their parents, are the parents willing to enroll them in school? Are the parents willing to accept that the child should not be working? Child labor is a complex issue, and remediation approaches should honor that complexity by taking steps appropriate for each case. Asking the child and their family about remediation options is empowering and tailors the best rehabilitation plan for the individual. BEST PRACTICE PLAN FOR SHORT-, MEDIUM-, AND LONG-TERM CARE OF THE CHILD If a child enters protective custody and a remediation plan is enacted, care must be taken to ensure the rights and protection of the child. Plans are developed to address immediate health and safety concerns, and then provide a longer-term plan based on the child’s goals. The following are important features of the plan: • Immediate safety, including medical treatment, when needed• Development, education, and social services • Ongoing monitoring Best Practice Applied When considering a remediation approach, GoodWeave considers a short-, medium- and long-term plan to mitigate the possibility that the child ends up in a similar or worse situation. In the short-term, the child is safely removed from work in a way in line with national reporting laws, and that ensures their well-being and immediate medical care if it is needed. In the medium-term, the child is provided educational opportunities and counseling, also be made available to the family. In the long-term, continuous follow-up and monitoring ensures the child’s protection, education and development. In Nepal, GoodWeave’s rehabilitation center, Hamro Ghar (Our Home), provides a safe place for rescued children to live and learn. Children are provided coun- seling and are offered a non-formal education to reach their appropriate grade level, if needed. They are also supported in the pursuit of secondary education or vocational training. GoodWeave transitions children to higher level education as feasible, and helps transition children in the short-, medium- and long-term – up until they reach grade 10 or 18 years of age.

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